Simple Hedonisms

Posts Tagged ‘pinot noir’

Pinot Pinot Pinot!

This weekend is the 6th annual Pigs & Pinot, hosted by celebrated chef Charlie Palmer. March 18-19, 2011 at Hotel Healdsburg. The celebratory weekend offers a series of intimate dining and educational events.  Master Sommeliers and international celebrity chefs will showcase some of the world’s greatest Pinots with perfect pork pairings….you had me at Pinot…

(All proceeds from Pigs & Pinot benefit Share Our Strength and local Healdsburg Education (The Healdsburg Education Foundation, St. John school and The Healdsburg School).)

If you didn’t get a ticket to this  sold out, highly sought after event, don’t despair – there is a great alternate option below. But first here is what you will miss:

• Friday evening’s kickoff event is the lively Taste of Pigs & Pinot where guests sample 60 highly-acclaimed Pinot Noir wines competing in the Pinot Cup competition, both from Sonoma County and around the world. (I was lucky enough to score one of these – will ‘broadcast’ live.
• On Saturday afternoon, Pigs & Pinot participants can attend two seminars: “Tournament of The Pig” where Charlie Palmer and three guest chefs will divide into two teams to prepare the best pork-inspired dishes as determined by an expert judging panel, and “The Ultimate Pinot Smackdown” seminar led by Master Sommeliers, Keith Goldston, Fred Dame, Drew Hendricks, and William Sherer
  

  Courtesy of Hotel Healdsburg

• Saturday evening – Spoonbar’s Celebration of Pigs n Pinot:  An exclusive four-course dinner on Saturday evening at h2hotel’s Spoonbar. This special dinner will begin with a welcome artisan cocktail from h2’s master mixologist, Scott Beattie, followed by an intimate Celebration of Pigs & Pinot dinner created by Spoonbar’s Chef Rudy Mihal and Guest Chef Liza Shaw, formerly of San Francisco’s Southern Italian hot spot: A16. The menu will be paired with acclaimed Pinot Noir from Sonoma County Vintners’ Inman Family Wines and Thomas George Estates along with two top international producers.

• Saturday evening’s Pigs & Pinot Gala features a sumptuous five-course dinner at Hotel Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Kitchen.  As a collaborative offering, each course features a signature creation from Palmer and his guest chefs including: “Top Chef” brothers Michael and Bryan Voltaggio, Nancy Oakes of Boulevard and Prospect, Marc Forgione of Marc Forgione and Season 3 winner of The Next Iron Chef and Philippe Rispoli of Boulangerie Bistro. Every course will be paired with two limited-production Pinot Noirs from highly acclaimed wineries Merry Edwards, Woodenhead, Rochioli, Bodega Chacra and Domaine Parent.

• Pigs & Pinot Late Night is a post-gala celebration with after-dinner drinks and dessert in the Hotel Healdsburg lobby.  All Pigs & Pinot celebrants are welcome to attend.

Piggy and Pinot Noir for the Rest of Us: Vintage Wine Estates  – ‘Pork on the Plaza’

Saturday March 19th, 2011 from 5:30 to 7:00 Vintage Wine Estates will host  Chef Mark Stark and award-winning Sonoma Coast Vineyards Winemaker Anthony Austin  in their intimate downtown Healdsburg Tasting Room.

Mark will pair three pork creations with three  Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noirs and demonstrate how to prepare them.
- Serrano Ham & Manchego Cheese Matchsticks with Chives & White Truffle Honey
-Pork Belly Potstickers with Chinese Five Spice and Shiitake Mushrooms
-Orange Crush Carnitas Sliders with Salsa Verde & Piquillo Peppers

Anthony will introduce you to Sonoma Coast Vineyards and his winemaking philosophy. For tasting, be greeted with bubbles with their 2007 Sea Fog Cuvee Blanc de Noirs and then pair the small plates with: 2008 Petersen Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 Balistreri Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (a 2011 Pinot Cup contender) 2008 Bodega Ridge Pinot Noir.

Although sold out of the 2006 Petersen Vineyard Pinot Noir, which won Charlie Palmer’s Pigs & Pinot 2008 Pinot Cup,  a few are set aside  to taste.

Cost: only  $60.00 general public, $50.00 Wine Club Members. Price includes 30% off all Sonoma Coast Vineyards wines and a complimentary tasting flight of VWE wines Limited seating, so early registration is recommended. To register for the event or for more information, please call Vintage Wine Estates at 707.921.2893.

About Mark Stark:

CIA trained, Sonoma County celebrity chef Mark Stark has an esteemed career from some of the country’s most respected restaurants. Since mov- ing to Sonoma County, Mark has become renown for his innovative and creative approach to food and has developed a legion of devoted fans. With his wife Terri, he opened Willi’s Wine Bar, Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar and Stark’s Steakhouse among others, all to rave reviews. Created in partnership with Relish Culinary Adventures.

As of today, there is some seating left – call 707.921.2893. And I don’t want to hear the usual ‘we procrastinated and its sold out’ comments later.

Cheers!

I should be shot for taking this long to review one of Kenny’s wines, as I have been a big fan since I first tasted, and many in our local wine tasting circle agree.

Kenny’s approach to wine making is generally minimal intervention, often using native yeast and secondary fermentation, at modest brix levels, allowing the varietal and vintage to express itself. You may know his wines through his other labels as well, including Hobo and Ghost Writer.

The wine I’d also like to make wine of the week is a brilliant ‘orange’ wine (barely orange really). The 2009 Jeanne D’Arc is 87% Chenin Blanc and 13% Riesling. Fermented 100% on the skins with natural yeast and left on the skins for 2 weeks. One of the more complex, modest priced wines I tasted last year, but it’s down to less  a case, and may not have as wide and audience, although everyone I know exposed to it has raved.

Many of Kenny’s releases are very small lots, and he sells a fair amount through regional distribution so access to a release can sometimes be short lived.  Hobo and Folk Machine wines are available in Healdsburg at the Downtown Wine tasting room.

In the release notes Kenny says of Potter Valley “Because Potter Valley may not need an introduction by the time this wine is released I will leave it in short by saying it is one of those places that seems like it should be more traveled, more explored, and more appreciated, but I am grateful that there is no traffic and few people when I visit (though more and more vineyards).”

I had to confess ignorance of Potter Valley but after a Google search, found this good article with detail on the cool climate Mendocino region.

Folk Machine 2009 The Crooner – Potter Valley Pinot Noir

Color: Medium Red, Mostly clear

On the Nose: Strawberry, red fruit, a bit of spice

In the Mouth: Wonderful. Strawberry, red fruit, Rhubarb. Very modest tannins, enough for structure and balance, elegant. Not fruit forward or a cherry bomb, or masquerading as Syrah. A Pinot lovers Pinot, and at a price that won’t break the bank. Good acidity, velvet mouth feel, nice lingering finish. Modest 13.5% alcohol.

This is an amazing Pinot for price. Retail $28.

Get it locally at Downtown Wine (their tasting room) in Healdsburg. (Tell em you read it here, Aaron may give ya a special pour.  Or order online. Hobo/Folk Machine wines are also distributed  – check out these locations across the country.

Rating: Outstanding. 90 points.

Recommendation: Buy and drink or hold.

Wine Geek Info:

• Harvested 50% Pommard and 50% 115 the morning of September 19.
• Destemmed 85% of the two clones together leaving 15% whole clusters and the work in a way ended there.
• No cold soak, inoculate, or additions.
• When the fermentation began, it began and progressed slowly taking 10 days without temperature control to ferment.
• The malolactic fermentation, also uninoculated proceeded at a similarly slow pace and completed in January.
• SO2 was avoided until bottling to “keep the wine alive.”
• Aged in French oak, 30% new from the Bertrange and Allier forests for 11 months on the lees. The Vecino Vineyard is certified organic by CCOF.
• only 10 barrels (250 cases using Sonoma math) made.

Pinot Noir – my first non Bordeaux love, before my Rhone mistress. You never forget your first real experience with a woman; Pinot Noir, thankfully ahead of Sideways, awoke my palate after many years of Bordeaux varietals  (Cabernet, Merlot, etc.) I was seduced by this seductive, layered, complex varietal that didn’t require tannin condom on my tongue to drink.

I speak  passionately about Rhones, but  a elegant, silky Pinot Noir fills a void no other wine does.

Dutton Estate

I had a very pleasant re-visit to Dutton during my frenetic garagiste harvest. Consumer sales guru Martini Bagget had been corresponding with me to stop in. Dutton Estate’s tasting room is casual and non-pretentious, which worked well since I was coming back from Saralee Vineyards with my trailer after dropping off bins, in harvest attire. It was a quick stop from Saralee , so I decided to treat myself to a visit amidst the fall frenzy of activity.

Unfortunately I didn’t make a blog about my entire tasting – but sometimes even wine writers ‘just enjoy’, and I did. Martini was a very gracious, enthusiastic hostess.

My goal for Wine of the Week is to share a special wine I think others will enjoy, and will strive for something in reach of most. Granted, at ~$45, this is a bit higher than others, but small lot, well made Pinot Noir simply isn’t inexpensive. Like an expensive mistress, it’s a high maintenance grape that needs special attention, and comes with a higher production cost for a true Pinot Noir experience.

Dutton Estate 2008 Russian River Valley, Thomas Road, Pinot Noir

Dutton Estate is a grower first, vintner second, managing 80 distinct vineyards in Russian River Valley, much located in Green Valley. Thomas Road is planted with Dijon clone 115, which produces a darker, bolder Pinot Noir. Nonetheless this Pinot Noir maintains her form. Don’t let the clonal descriptors through you off, this is not a Syrah tainted Pinot.

I wish I had created this quote myself, but I must share one of the Cellartracker reviews: “A big, curvy, sexy Pinot, stuffed into a simple elegant dress…” This is a woman, not a girl.

To The Eye: Garnet.  Modestly opaque, unfiltered.

On The Nose: Cranberry, black cherry, spice, and a hint of earth

In The Mouth: Bold front palate; black fruit, cherry; wonderful mid palate, lush, nice mouth feel. Fruit carries through to a nice finish, with lingering acidity.

Where To Buy: Online on their website, $48

Food Pairing: This Pinot has enough heft to stand up to a number of  meats – Lamb. Filet Mignon. Duck.

Other Info: 14.4 % Alcohol. Only 15 barrels (375 cases, unless using Napa math) made

Recommendation: A Russian River Pinot Noir worthy of a spot in your cellar. Not quite as delicate as other Pinot Noirs I often favor, but seduced me nonetheless.

Rating: Outstanding, 91 points

Cheers and thanks for reading Simple Hedonisms Wine Blog !

This July when attending a portion of the International Pinot Noir Festival (IPNC) I was fortunate enough to meet transplanted Charleston native, Kevin Wiles, who like so many small artisans, visited Wine Country while running a wine shop and import business, and decided to jump in.

His first release of Pinot Noir was in 2007, named after his mother and niece, who share Hope as a middle name. Cuvee means the release is from a blend of different vineyards;  Temperance Hill Vineyard being the majority of the blend.

I have written and commented regularly about my growing preference for lighter, more ‘true’ pinot noirs, and was a bit taken aback at IPNC at the globalization of ‘Big Pinot’ ; the world points regularly to California to big pinot, but after recent tours of Oregon, and then the Al Fresco tasting of 35 different 2007 releases from 5 countries, it was more clear than ever it’s not just in Cali anymore. I understand WHY producers do this, the average consumer, migrating or exploring from a ‘knock me in the head cab” is expecting and erroneously been led to believe ‘bigger’ is better, and it sells. Understanding why winerys blend in syrah, and liking it, are different things.

Fortunately this Pinot Noir is a more modest style. It’s not quite the velvety, sexy Pinot Noir I personally crave, but wine reviews are about how the wine is made and its quality, not about my personal palate, something a few blogger ‘experts’ don’t seem to grasp.

Color: Dark Red/Purple. Slightly opaque.

On the Nose: Strawberry, cherry,  cranberry, hint of earth.

On the Palate: I was anticipating a ‘bigger’ Pinot from the dark color, but pleased to taste otherwise. Black cherry, slightly tart red fruit. Medium body mid palate, and good finish with nice acidity.

What to pair with: An excellent pinot for modest fare; grilled chicken, salmon, Milder (non gamey) meats, moderate pasta sauces.

Where to Purchase: Online here for $34, 10% discount for a case order.  This bottle was a media sample.

Wine Review Feedback

I’d love some feedback from readers on Wine Reviews. I have a backlog to do, and I’d like to hear if these interest you, what you’d like to see added, subtracted etc. If you don’t want a comment, send it to info on the Contact Info tab. Likewise if you wish to submit wines for review.

The annual Holiday in Carneros is in full swing this weekend. Simple Hedonisms visited a few of the participating wineries yesterday and we share our experiences here. Tickets are still available at the 22 open wineries today from 10am-4pm. They are an excellent value at $40 for a full day of food, wine, and gorgeous fall vistas over the San Pablo baylands spanning southern Sonoma and Napa county.  The list of winery activities can be found here, and a map of participating wineries is here. We’ll also be posting additional coverage after today’s tastings.

Ceja Vineyards

Pulling up at Ceja Vineyards in Carneros, I heard music and laughter. Inside it was warm and I was welcomed, as always, by family members. The crisp, minerally Ceja Sauvignon Blanc was paired with homemade corn chowder, served steaming with queso fresca and a twist of lime. The hot spice in the chowder was tamed nicely by the SauvBlanc.  Ceja Carneros Pinot Noir is paired with noshes of dark chocolate truffle cake from Truffle Gateau of Sacramento. Worth pursuing!

All the wineries are running special offers for Holiday in Carneros guests, and Ceja’s are exceptional values, for example $50 off the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. This brings the Sauvignon Blanc to $11/bottle – a great value for this well-made wine.  I didn’t stay late enough, but Orchestra Borinquen was slated to play in the afternoon. This is a great spot to come inside and warm up to artisan wines, homemade soup, chocolate and salsa music!

Ceja also produces Chardonnay, Carneros Merlot and a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, a Rosé and blends. They have a central downtown Napa tasting room open 7 days a week (closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day).

Adastra Vineyards

Adastra's Historic Barn Tasting Room

Adastra is a 20-acre family vineyard open only twice a year to the public. The tasting room is housed in a quaint historic barn, with old photos on the walls, along with large signs detailing special Holiday in Carneros pricing for wine, wine club, and private tours.  All grapes are estate grown and CCOF certified organic. The name “Adastra,” comes from a phrase beloved of the owner’s father: Per aspera, ad astra … through striving to the stars.

Adastra makes both an oaked and an unoaked Chardonnay. The labels state this rather simply, as shown in the photos.  My palate gravitated to the crisp unoaked Chardonnay, with a breezy, salty baylands tang coming through in the fruit. Paired with a Boucheron goat cheese, it was divine. Another memorable wine I tasted was the 2007 “Proximus” Pinot Noir. Proximus is Adastra’s reserve designation. Select small lots of wine are classified Proximus, Latin for “closer”… to the stars. Pinots are paired with a fabulous Drunken Goat cheese from a village in Spain. The cheese is dunked in wine then aged 2-3 months, giving it a grapey aftertaste that brings out new layers of flavor in the wine. Besides Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the winery also produces Merlot and a Red blend.

Departing Adastra, I noticed a group gathered around a pile of pumpkins. A sign said “Take home a pumpkin (or two),” so we did!  It was fun to come home with wine and festive pumpkins for display or holiday cooking.

Although Adastra is not open to the public, they offer a private tour and tasting by appointment. For $20/person, guests tour the historic ranch with the winemaker, and sample 7-9 wines paired with artisan cheeses. Fees are waived with wine purchases. Contact the winery for details and to make an appointment. I’m planning to!

Larson Family Winery

It took Holiday in Carneros to get me to visit Larson, and finally I’m relieved of the guilt I’ve felt at driving by on the highway dozens of times without going in.  Larson is a stand-out with their rustic barn barrel room, great food and wine pairings, and live acoustic music and vocals.  The fun starts when you step in the door and spin the “big wheel.” I won a 40% discount on case purchases for the day!

Live in the Barrel Room at Larson Family Winery

Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and a crisp Gewurztraminer – all Carneros grown – were paired with juicy local oysters BBQ’d and served with a choice of hot sauce with lime and salt, or garlic butter (should have been called buttered garlic).  The estate-grown and produced 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir is a rich garnet with vanilla nose, and bright red fruit in the mouth.  Full-flavored yet only 13.5% alcohol makes this a very versatile Pinot at $29.99 retail.

The piece-de-résistance was a rich cheesecake smothered in Larson’s own “Three Lab Cab Chocolate Cabernet sauce.” Of course, the pairing was with Cabernet Sauvignon – I had the 2005 Sonoma Valley which was full-bodied and flavored with only 13.5% alcohol (really). This Cab in a 1.5 liter bottle is currently on sale at $55. Great wine-making, value and hospitality at Larson!

Larson makes numerous other wines, check the website for information. They are  open for tasting daily 10-5, and they are a family- and pet–friendly winery. In fact, two of the 3 labs were fetching a ball out back when I arrived.

Schug Carneros Estate

I’m really glad I had a chance to return to Schug this year. I found their new vintages really exciting and had a chance to taste some of their Reserve wines too.

The 2008 Pinot Noirs were interesting to taste side-by-side. The Sonoma Coast Pinot was ruby colored, with scents of red stone fruit. It opened into many layers on the palate: briar-patch, nettles, licorice and cherry. At 13.5% alcohol and $24 a very versatile wine. The Carneros Pinot was deep garnet with distinct berries and tasty tobacco-y tannins, for $28.

Reserve Tasting in the Cave at Schug Carneros

In the cave, I tasted 2007 Rouge et Noir made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes from the Ricci vineyard on the cool Napa side of Carneros.  I was provided with a slender flute to taste the bubbly, which was rose-colored, light and toasty. The 2007 Schug Carneros Chardonnay Heritage Reserve was dry, floral and tasted of golden raisins. Paired with Cypress Grove’s Purple Haze goat cheese flavored with lavender and fennel. Yummy!  Another Heritage Reserve wine was the 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir. Paired with the 6-month aged El Trigal Manchego cheese it was stunning.

I recommend Holiday in Carneros guests take advantage of this opportunity to taste the Schug Reserve wines paired with great cheeses. It’s a $10 optional fee and well worth it.

Schug makes Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot, Merlot and Cab, including some Rosé and Sparkling versions. The tasting room is open daily 10-5.

Plan Your Day!

These are just a few of the wineries participating, to give you a flavor of the event. Each spot on the map offers a unique experience, direct access to the people behind the wines, and dramatic fall vineyard scenery. And it’s all for a good cause, as proceeds help to fund scholarships at Santa Rosa Junior College and Napa Valley College.  To get the most out of your day, don’t forget to read Simple Hedonisms’ advice on planning for a tasting event outing. If you use Twitter, search on hashtag #HiC10 to see posts and tips in real time today.

This weekend marks the 7^th Annual Pinot on The River Festival. My 2^nd year in attendance, I found this event to be one of the best organized, enjoyable, and if you are a Pinot lover, an incredible experience and opportunity to immerse yourself in the opportunity to taste and explore dozens of small production, often allocated, Pinot Noirs.

Pinot; You Never Forget Your First Seductress

While I have been focusing on more on Rhone varietals these days;  Pinot Noir will always be a mainstay love in my life. About ten years ago she rescued me from the doldrums of drinking predominantly Bordeaux varietals,  lightened by the occasional Sauvignon Blanc and (thankfully) Viognier.

I was living in Marin and the City, working  in Petaluma, and making frequent jaunts to the Russian River Valley.  Pinot Noir was the change I was seeking for a palate tired of being oppressed by oak and tannins. Her lush, silky embrace wooed me. I had grown up from dating girls, to a slightly more mature, heady, woman.

The Events

While many focus on the Sunday Grand Artisanal Tasting, held Sunday afternoon at Rodney Strong, there are events all weekend.

Pinot On The River 2010 begins Friday evening, October 22, with “Friday Night Out In The Valley” dinner hosted this year at Roadhouse Winery in Healdsburg. Saturday,

Saturday, October 23 features seminars focused on the 2009 Vintage of Pinot Noir and A Vintage Retrospective looking at older vintages, moderated by Gregory S. Walter, editor of Pinot Report.pini

The festival kicks into high gear Saturday night with the “A Taste Of Pinot” dinner event. The dinner is a fundraiser for the Boys & Girls Clubs of Central Sonoma County, featuring the first annual “A Taste Of Pinot” dinner at the Hotel Healdsburg in Healdsburg. The event will feature Pinot-inspired tastings of unique small bites prepared by Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen paired with limited production Pinot Noir from a group of producers.

On Sunday, October 24, more than 100 wineries will gather to pour their best Pinots for the walkaround “Grand Artisanal Pinot Noir Tasting at the Rodney Strong Vineyards.” Cheese purveyors.

Some Advice for the Grand Tasting – Spit it Out

If you are in or close to the wine industry, by now you have learned how to properly enjoy an event like this. If you are a typical consumer, this suggestion is often received as distasteful. At this years IPNC I listened to an older consumer ask a winemaker “Why are some people spitting anyway, I dump out, isn’t that the same?” Sadly, the winemaker missed out on an opportunity to help educate, and offered no contrary opinion.

Do the math; a hundred producers, many pouring multiple releases. If you tried 50 of them, quite feasible over 3-4 hours (I will taste ~50-100) and swallowed a ½ ounce of the 1-2 ounces poured, you will have consumed a bottle of wine. (or easily more.) Even if you have a Designated Driver, and say a high tolerance, why should you care, you ask?

I guess it depends on what your goal of the event is. This is a unique opportunity to compare side by side,  dozens of styles of one of the most subtle, terroir expressive varietals you can taste. Only a few ounces of alcohol begin to alter your sensory evaluation abilities, though you may not realize it at first.  Give your palate the opportunity to explore, compare, and contrast the vintages without the mask of alcohol impairment.

This is an event where you will see industry, writers, and the most serious of consumers walking around, red cup in hand. If you consider yourself a pinot-phile and becoming a more serious evaluator of wine; try it, even for an hour. It transformed the way I learned to appreciate wine.

Tickets are available here. Note, I have a limited time discount code for specially priced tickets for Simple Hedonisms readers. Contact me right away if interested.

Live Coverage:

Simple Hedonisms will be roaming around the event seeking out our favorite releases, and sharing experiences and tasting notes live over Facebook and Twitter (Hashtag #POTR2010). If you follow my writing and shared palate experiences; its no surprise what I will be seeking and most likely to praise; modestly made, less extracted, no syrah added, graceful, delicate, light, feminine Pinot Noir.

Hope you will follow and enjoy.

If you see me roaming around, stainless spit cup and iPad in hand, say hi!

Facebook Input

P.S. On that note, I have typically share my tasting notes live on Twitter, as well on Facebook, via my personal page…recently I have been posting instead on the S H Fan page – any preference of either? (Even though the Fan page has more followers, the personal page oddly still gets more response.

The world through DUNSTAN Rosé glasses

Ever since I had a taste of DUNSTAN Rosé at a summer wine event, I lusted after this wine.  Finally I caught up with it at the launch of the 2009 vintage.  I got to explore what it was about my first taste that made this wine so memorable.  In the process I spent time on the Durell Ranch where the grapes are grown and learned the story behind the wine and it’s label.

Like most romances, this one begins with the visuals. An extraordinary salmon-peach wine color radiates through clear glass, with a silver foil that seems to reflect the color of the wine.  Label information is spare … an ethereal horseshoe shape etched in metallic ink and a website address on the back. At this point, we don’t know from which type of grape this Rosé is made, which process is used, nor anything about it’s character. But I am only more enchanted and more curious.

I went over to meet with Chris Towt, who in partnership with Ellie Phipps Price make wines from a single block of the Durell Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast wine-growing region.  I learned that the object of my desire is a Rosé of Pinot Noir, from grapes planted by Phipps Price in 2005, resulting in this first vintage in 2009.  This silvery liquid is produced using the saignée (pronounced ‘sonyay’) method that involves making rosé from red grapes by bleeding off some of the juice after a limited time in contact with skins. Since skin contact is what gives color to wine, limiting time “on the skins” results in the many shades of Rosé you see in the marketplace. (The two other methods of making Rosé are vin gris – where red grapes are pressed to yield lightly-colored juice; and blending – where red and white wine or juice is blended together.)

The DUNSTAN Horseshoe

The website tells the Dunstan story in the words of Ellie and Chris: “You’ve seen a horseshoe hanging above a doorway — a symbol of protection and luck.  According to 10th century legend, a blacksmith named Dunstan was visited by the Devil to have his shoes reset.  While fitting the shoes, Dunstan quicked the Devil who implored for the shoe to be removed.  Dunstan agreed, but only after the Devil promised never to enter a dwelling with a horseshoe hanging above the door. When we were first planting the Ranch House Block at Durell, a very large horseshoe was unearthed.  Rusted and obviously very old, it served as the inspiration for the name of our new wine.”

The Durell Vineyard

Ranch House Block at Durell Vineyard

The Durell Vineyard is so well-known as an origin point of fine wines of distinct complexity that many wineries include it on their labels. And many award-winning wines have their genesis from these 400 acres. I’ve even seen it advertised along the roadside, such as the “Durell Pinot” sign outside Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma Valley. Don van Staaveren is the winemaker for Dunstan. He was winemaker at Chateau St. Jean from 1985-1997, and has been making wines from Durell grapes for many years.  How did DUNSTAN decide to make a Rosé? It was van Staaveren’s idea. DUNSTAN is getting such good feedback, they are already planning for more cases of Rosé in the coming vintages.

DUNSTAN’s Ranch House Block of the Durell Vineyard is planted in 3-1/2 acres of Chardonnay and 5 acres Pinot Noir grapes. The DUNSTAN launch also saw the first release of their 2008 Chardonnay and 2008 Pinot Noir.  The way the DUNSTAN horseshoe image is carried out across the bottles makes for a stunning trio – golden Chardonnay with gold foil, gold metallic ink, and Pinot Noir in a commanding black bottle with black foil. The wines can be purchased at the DUNSTAN online store.

Dunstan the Pony

Dunstan the Pony

Towt and Phipps Price share a love of horses and ride regularly on the property. We stop by the stables to greet Dunstan, a little Indian pony Ellie purchased at auction from the BLM Colorado Wild Horse Inmate Program. Ellie is actively involved in rescue efforts and recently was instrumental in saving 172 wild horses from going to slaughter at a Nevada auction as part of the Lifesavers Wild Horse Rescue. Dunstan rushes up when he sees Chris and – now completely tame – responds affectionately to a nose rub and a handful of fresh hay.

DUNSTAN is open by appointment only for tours and tasting. Call the winery at 707.933.3839 or email info@dunstanwines.com to schedule.

WINE REVIEW

Wine: 2009 DUNSTAN Rosé, Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast

Color: Salmon, silvery apricot

Aromas: Layers of floral melon, butterscotch, and a hint of mint

In the Mouth: There’s a soft mouth feel, a pleasant viscosity. Front of mouth is fruity, distinctly strawberry. Fleeting taste of bacon at the back of the mouth, with a lingering mineral finish that expands and contracts … like an almost-remembered summer day. Refreshing, addictive.

Pairing: Salmon and tuna sushi, thin sliced cured meats and melon, white mushroom and cream sauces, herb-roasted poultry.  The romance of this Rosé lends itself well to a picnic, BBQ, or festive holiday table.

Wine Geek Details:

Alcohol: 14.1%
Hand-harvested, Sept 9, 2009
Brix: 25
TA: 0.82 g/100ml
pH: 3.45
Acreage: 5 acres Dijon clones (115, 667, 828, Clara, and Swan)
Aging: 50% neutral oak / 50% stainless steel
Cases Produced: 59
AVA: Sonoma Coast
Winemaker: Don van Staaveren

$24 Retail
Website
Facebook

How do you know when you like a wine?  “It should have a wow factor … it should scream at you,” says John Saemann, vintner at Clouds Rest Winery in Sonoma County.  Clouds Rest has been hand-producing Pinot Noir from a small Sonoma Coast vineyard since 2002.  These are collector’s wines, priced outside my budget at around $100 a bottle. Good news: a new addition to the Clouds Rest Pinot lineup is available, and at a much lower price point. It’s Femme Fatale, a younger release from the same vineyard, priced at $45 ($39 with case discount). K&L Wine passes along their discount, bringing it down to $39 for a single bottle purchase – outright affordable for a Pinot Noir in this class.

2008 Femme Fatale

I got the wow factor when I tasted the 2008 Clouds Rest Femme Fatale recently … rich cherry red, aromas of ripe stone fruit, flavors of blackberry, plum, pepper, light smoky tannins and hint of rosemary … rolling into a soft, mouth-filling viscosity. My attention shifted to follow the flavor explosion and structure of this wine.  And I’m not alone. Beth Arnold wrote of Clouds Rest Pinot Noir in Huffington Post, “Their Pinots retail for at least $100 a bottle. But, my God, I was almost in tears they were so good.”  And she lives in Paris, so you can imagine the wines she has access to on a regular basis.  “Pinot is a wine for me that brings together so many varietal characteristics into one glass,” John told me, with a heavenward roll of his eyes. Wow factor is more than the look, feel and taste of the wine … it is a quality that transports and totally engages you — like a great movie or a conversation with a good friend.

Seamann says Clouds Rest wanted to give more people access to their Pinot Noir, but without compromising the label.  Femme Fatale is the answer; grapes come from the same vines and terroir Clouds Rest is known for, and the wine-making process is the same, except for bottle aging.  Femme Fatale is released earlier (younger), saving the winery on storage cost. How much? Up to 3 years of bottle aging for the collectors wines. Savings are also passed along through simpler packaging. Femme Fatale’s lighter weight bottle is less costly to ship. Paper labels save cost compared to gilt silk-screened labels on the heavy Burgundian bottles used for collectors’ wines.

Narrow rows above the clouds at Clouds Rest -- Photo: Scott Schuette

What goes into creating the “wow factor” in a wine?

A few things: winemaking skill and style, choice of barrels, choice of grape stock planted, farming style – and terroir. Think of terroir as the vineyard version of “location, location, location.” In this respect, Clouds Rest, on it’s perch above Petaluma California, is very unique.

I walked the vineyard with Scott Schuette, Clouds Rest General Manager and unofficial photographer. Scott tells me the vines are planted at 1250 feet, on an ancient volcanic knoll that was never before cultivated. It had been impossible to farm because of steep terrain and the volcanic rocks strewn over the landscape. To create the vineyard, Seamann ripped out rocks – some quite large – down to a 6-foot depth. Huge piles of extracted rocks dot the property today.  Rows are planted just 3 feet apart, the only known 36”x36” density in California — and possibly anywhere. On less than 2 acres, there are 10,000 vines – producing volume equivalent to about 10 acres of vineyard. Crowding plants this way would normally invite mildew and fungus. But because Clouds Rest is situated in the Petaluma wind gap, there is constant movement of marine air between the Sonoma coast and San Pablo Bay. Rows are deliberately angled to capture maximum sun and air movement on the hill.

Volcanic rocks extracted

The Clouds Rest philosophy is to orchestrate what the vineyard gives them. Having a rockstar winemaker helps too: Anthony Austin who studied under Andre Tchelistcheff, a legendary winemaker of Napa and Sonoma Valley. A Healdsburg (Sonoma county) California native and University of California Davis graduate in enology, Austin directed the first crush at Firestone Vineyards in 1976. He went on to become an award-winning winemaker of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Santa Barbara area, and returned to make wine in Sonoma in 2001.

Irrigation lines and a huge water storage tank are visible on our walk, and yet no water was used during this wet weather year. These deliberately austere conditions – rocky, windy, crowded, dry — are influenced by the French “intensive” method. Intensive farming forces the vines to compete and struggle, resulting in small fruit of dense and complex flavor.

Dense clustering

Pinot Noir is a notoriously difficult grape to cultivate. It is thin-skinned, prone to rot, viruses, diseases, and vulnerable to over-crowding.  Tchelistcheff has said, “God made Cabernet Sauvignon whereas the devil made Pinot Noir.” There is a reason Pinot Noir is higher priced: the grape is difficult to grow and takes a great deal of viticultural skill and hands‐on processing to result in a good bottle. Against these odds, the wow factor is alive and well in Femme Fatale.  And Austin believes the harsh conditions at Clouds Rest force the grapes to develop thicker skins; thereby retaining more flavor and essence.

What gives wine the “wow factor” for you?

At the end of the day, the wow factor is about what you like. Wine preference is unique to each person, so what appeals to you may be different than for others. What gives a wine the wow factor for you? Where does the aroma and taste transport you to? What do you think goes into creating the wow factor in a wine? Please comment below – Simple Hedonisms would love to hear about your experiences!

Where can you find Femme Fatale?

Fem Fatale, as well as Clouds Rest Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, are available at Roadhouse Winery Tasting Room in Healdsburg, and Bounty Hunter in Napa. Check the Clouds Rest website for online purchase and for a list of restaurants pouring Clouds Rest wines. And as mentioned, K&L Wines is carrying 2008 Femme Fatale.

Clouds Rest will be pouring at Family Winemakers of California, Aug 22-23 at Fort Mason Center in San Francisco.

Clouds Rest will be a featured in the “Grand Reserve” tent at Taste of Sonoma: Wine Country Weekend during Labor Day holiday. They are also pouring at the Sept 3^rd Winemakers Lunch and at other venues throughout the event.

The Russian River Valley (RRV) has emerged over the last decade as a world renowned region of wine growing. It’s especially recognized for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but many great varietals from Rhones like roussanne and cool climate syrah, to cool climate zinfandel are produced here.

This weekend, August 20-22 is the showcase event for RRV, the 15th Annual Grape to Glass.

Friday August 20th

There are several great events to choose from Friday:

CELLARPASS WINERY SENSATIONS PASSPORT:

Your very own VIP CellarPass to tour our many participating wineries and discover what makes each sensational. Hosted by CellarPass, an online reservation tool for planning and booking wine country events, wineries will open exclusive bottles and surprise you with their own special attraction. Visit at least four participating wineries and you’ll be entered into a drawing to win a return trip back to the Russian River Valley in 2011.  11 a.m. – 430 p.m. $45

IN CONCERT WITH THE ARTISANS

Taste an amazing array of the best of Russian River food and wine, hosted at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek in Santa Rosa.

The Evening’s Schedule:
6:00pm – 8:00pm Russian River Valley Varietal Hosted Garden Tasting
8:15pm – 9:45pm Concert with Nick Palance – No Host Bar, No Host Small Plates
10:00pm – 10:45pm Nick Palance Reception & Signing, No Host Bar

Tickets start at $85

Saturday August 21st

Saturday features a wide array of activities and seminars: everything from Kayaking the Russian River, to Seminars on Green Farming, or touring Pinot Noir Neighborhoods. No matter what your interest in food and wine, there is something for everyone; for the complete list click here. Events have limited space so don’t wait too long!

The amazing day wraps up with the spectacular HOG IN THE FOG ~ Festival of Plenty, hosted at the fabulous Richards Grove in Saralee’s Vineyard, in Windsor, a venue open only a few times a year for events.

The Russian River Valley Winegrowers annual Hog in the Fog ~ Festival of Plenty BBQ is a perennial favorite with its TasteFest and auction. This year add’s live music, art by our vintner artists, and a surprise guest chef known for firing up great BBQ recipes.

The event features more than fifty Russian River Valley wineries, small-bites produced from our region’s fabulous food products, silent auction items, and arts created by our versatile and talented vintners. Grape growers will be prepare the evening’s plentiful BBQ feast.

Dinner will be paired (of course) with Russian River Valley wines.  Vintners and growers will roll up their sleeves and make the rounds with great bottles.  The evening commences with a live auction featuring rare library wines and lifestyle packages.  $115/person.

Sunday August 20th

What better way to spend a Sunday, with Bubbles and gorgeous views at the BUBBLES & PIXELS ~ A Sparkling Pink Finish at Iron Horse Vineyards, a personal favorite. 

Set on the Sterling family’s stunning 350-acre estate, Bubbles & Pixels will feature the Sparkling & Pink wines of the Russian River Valley.  Wines are served with a family-style brunch, created by a top wine country chef and featuring local produce and artisan food products.
A panel of judges will announce the winners of the TasteLive Photo Contest. 10:30 a.m.  – 12:30 p.m.  $80

Have a GREAT Weekend, the Weather looks to

I have been a fan of C. Donatiello since I discovered them some 18 months ago, both for their wines, and the gorgeous property.
For those who may not yet be familiar with C. Donatiello or its location, Chris Donatiello, in partnership with Bill Hambrecht, purchased the facilities from Belvedere in 2006, and have morphed it into a world class facility and producer of stunning Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

C. Donatiello’s winemaker is Webster Marquez, also referred to as Web. An affable winemaker,  Web  is focused, committed, and always chasing making his best vintage yet, he comes to C. Donatiello from famous Pinot producer Williams Selyem. (He also has his own small label, Anthill Farms.)

In addition to their winery being a pleasure to visit, renowned for casual yet elegant service, each Sunday from late June through October 3rd they feature live music, with acts from all over the U.S. at no charge. It’s one of my Sunday’ faves, I almost hate to share to keep it smaller, but somethings are too good to keep to your self.

I was long overdue for a full tasting review; and was delighted for an invitation, as well as be one of the first for their new wine and cheese pairing which for $20, is one of the most underpriced, amazing Hedonistic pairings going on in Russian River. More on this in another post, but take my word for it, call for an appointment to schedule one of these.

Review

I have a special interest in this release, having just recently toured Floodgate Vineyard with vineyard manager Warren Burton, and new wine producer Cartograph Wines.

Region/AVA: Block 15, Floodgate Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County

Color: Lighter cranberry color, slightly opaque. (A thankful break from the ridiculously dark Pinot’s being produced today by many.)

Aroma: Cherry, Cranberry, with a pleasant touch of Earthiness

In The Mouth: Elegant. Despite the youth of this release, it’s a pleasure in the mouth, with velvet texture, wonderful balance and mouthfeel. Flavors of cherry and red fruit, with a nice finish, and  lingering acidity.

Price: $49 Retail

Wine Geek Info:

• Harvest Date – Sept 4, 2008
• Barrel Program – 10 months French Oak, 35% new
• Bottled – July 22, 2009
• 400 cases produced

Highly Recommend.